The Science of Knitting: How Knitted Fabrics Are Made
1. Basic Principles of Knitting
Knitting involves forming loops (stitches) with yarn and interlocking them in rows (courses) and columns (wales). There are two primary methods of knitting:
- Weft Knitting: The yarn runs horizontally, creating loops that interlock across the width of the fabric. This method is used for most casual knitwear like T-shirts and sweaters.
- Warp Knitting: The yarn runs vertically, with each loop connected to the one above and below it. This technique produces more stable fabrics, often used in lingerie, sportswear, and technical textiles.
2. Key Differences Between Knitted and Woven Fabrics
Feature |
Knitted Fabric |
Woven Fabric |
Structure |
Looped stitches |
Interlaced yarns |
Stretch |
High elasticity |
Limited stretch |
Durability |
Less resistant to abrasion |
More durable |
Breathability |
Highly breathable |
Varies based on weave |
Wrinkle Resistance |
More resistant |
Prone to wrinkling |
3. The Knitting Process
Knitted fabrics are produced using either:
- Flat Knitting Machines: Create flat panels of fabric, later sewn into garments.
- Circular Knitting Machines: Produce seamless tubes of fabric, ideal for socks, sleeves, and body-hugging apparel.
- Computerized Knitting: Advanced machines allow for intricate patterns, 3D knitting, and customized designs.
Types of Knitted Fabrics and Their Properties
Knitted fabrics come in various structures, each with unique characteristics that make them suitable for different applications. Below is an in-depth look at six common types of knitted fabrics, their properties, and typical uses.
1. Jersey
Structure & Production:
Single jersey is the simplest and most widely used weft-knit fabric, produced using a single set of needles. It consists of a single layer of interlocking loops with a distinct right side (smooth) and wrong side (looped).
Key Properties:
Lightweight & Breathable: The loose loop structure allows for excellent air circulation.
High Stretch: Stretches easily in the widthwise direction (more than lengthwise).
Tendency to Curl: The edges curl inward due to tension imbalance between the front and back.
Prone to Runs: If a yarn breaks, it can unravel easily (known as "laddering").
Common Uses:
T-shirts, tank tops, lightweight dresses, undergarments, casual wear, some types of sportswear.
Image 1: Jersey fabric
2. Rib
Structure & Production:
Rib knit is created by alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row, forming vertical ridges. Common variations include 1x1 rib (alternating every stitch) and 2x2 rib (two knits, two purls).
Key Properties:
Excellent Elasticity: Recovers well after stretching, making it ideal for fitted edges.
Reversible: Looks the same on both sides, though some variations (like half-rib) are not.
Lies Flat: Unlike single jersey, rib knit does not curl at the edges.
Common Uses:
Cuffs, collars, and waistbands (due to stretch recovery), fitted sweaters, athletic wear (where snug fit is needed)
Image 2: Rib fabric
3. Terry
Structure & Production:
Terry fabric is characterized by loops of yarn standing up on the fabric surface, created by weaving or knitting techniques. The most common type is terry cloth, which has loops on both sides, while French terry features loops on one side and a smooth surface on the other.
Key Properties:
Highly Absorbent: The looped surface increases surface area, making it excellent for soaking up moisture.
Soft and Comfortable: Offers a plush, gentle feel against the skin.
Insulating: The loops help trap air, providing warmth without excessive weight.
Common Uses:
Towels, bathrobes, and washcloths (due to absorbency), sweatshirts, loungewear, and casual activewear (especially French terry), baby clothing and accessories (for softness and comfort)
Image 3: Terry fabric
4. Pique
Structure & Production:
Pique knit is a textured knit fabric distinguished by its raised, waffle-like patterns, achieved through a combination of knit and tuck stitches. This structure creates a subtle geometric surface, often resembling honeycomb or bird’s eye designs. Typically produced using circular knitting machines, pique knit is commonly made from cotton or cotton-polyester blends, offering both breathability and durability.
Key Properties:
Breathable: The open-knit construction allows air circulation, making it ideal for warm-weather garments.
Moisture-Wicking: Effectively draws moisture away from the body, keeping the wearer dry and comfortable.
Durable: The textured knit provides strength and resilience, ensuring longevity even with frequent use.
Distinctive Texture: The raised patterns add visual interest and a tactile quality to the fabric.
Common Uses:
Polo shirts and golf apparel (due to its classic appearance and comfort), casual and sportswear tops, home textiles like dishcloths and towels.
Image 2: Pique fabric
Innovations in Knitting Technology
Recent advancements in knitting machinery and materials are revolutionizing the apparel industry.
1. 3D and Seamless Knitting
Whole Garment Knitting: Machines like Shima Seiki’s "Wholegarment" produce complete clothing items without seams, reducing waste.
Custom-Fit Apparel: Brands like Ministry of Supply use 3D knitting to create tailored garments with minimal material waste.
2. Smart and Functional Knits
Thermoregulating Fabrics: Phase-change materials (PCMs) are integrated into knits to adjust to body temperature.
Conductive Yarns: Used in wearable tech for health monitoring (e.g., heart-rate-sensing sportswear).
3. Sustainable Knitting Solutions
Recycled Materials: Brands like Patagonia use recycled nylon and polyester in knitwear.
Zero-Waste Production: Digital knitting allows precise yarn usage, minimizing offcuts.
These innovations highlight how knitting technology is merging sustainability, functionality, and futuristic design.
Advantages of Knitted Apparel
1. Comfort and Fit
The natural elasticity of knitted fabrics allows for a snug yet flexible fit.
Adapts to body movements, making it ideal for activewear.
2. Breathabilit
The looped structure allows air circulation, keeping the wearer cool.
3. Versatility
- Can be lightweight (for summer wear) or thick (for winter garments).
- Suitable for casual, formal, and technical applications.
4. Wrinkle Resistance
Knitted fabrics tend to recover well from folding, reducing wrinkles.
5. Seamless Design Possibilities
Advanced knitting machines can produce entire garments without seams, enhancing comfort.
Applications of Knitted Apparel
1. Fashion Industry
Everyday wear (T-shirts, sweaters, leggings).
Luxury knitwear (cashmere sweaters, designer dresses).
Seasonal collections (winter knits, summer breathable fabrics).
2. Sportswear and Activewear
Moisture-wicking fabrics for gym wear.
Compression garments for athletes.
Seamless designs to reduce chafing.
3. Medical Textiles
Compression stockings for circulation.
Bandages and orthopedic supports.
Antimicrobial knitted fabrics for hygiene.
4. Technical and Smart Textiles
Conductive yarns for wearable technology.
Temperature-regulating knits.
3D-knitted shoes and automotive textiles.
Sustainability in Knitted Apparel
1. Eco-Friendly Materials
Organic cotton, bamboo, and recycled polyester.
Biodegradable fibers like Tencel and hemp.
2. Zero-Waste Knitting
Computerized knitting reduces fabric waste.
Made-to-order production minimizes overstock.
3. Circular Fashion
Recyclable knitted garments.
Brands adopting take-back programs for old knitwear.
How to Care for Knitted Apparel
Knitted garments require special care to maintain their shape, softness, and longevity. Unlike woven fabrics, knits are more prone to stretching, pilling, and shrinkage if not handled properly. Here are some essential care tips:
1. Washing Knitted Fabrics
Hand Wash Preferred: Delicate knits (like wool or cashmere) should be hand-washed in cold water with mild detergent.
Machine Washing: If using a washing machine, place knits in a mesh bag and select a gentle cycle with cold water.
Avoid Harsh Detergents: Bleach and strong chemicals can weaken fibers and cause discoloration.
2. Drying and Storing
Lay Flat to Dry: Hanging knitted garments can stretch them out of shape. Instead, lay them flat on a towel to air-dry.
Avoid Direct Heat: Never tumble-dry wool or delicate knits, as heat can cause shrinkage.
Proper Storage: Fold knits instead of hanging them to prevent stretching. Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets to deter moths.
3. Dealing with Pilling and Stretching
Pilling: Use a fabric shaver or a sweater stone to remove fuzz balls gently.
Reshaping: If a garment stretches, soak it in cold water, then reshape it while damp before drying.
By following these care guidelines, knitted apparel can remain soft, well-fitted, and durable for years.
Future Trends in Knitted Apparel
1. 3D Knitting Technology
Machines produce entire garments without cutting or sewing.
Adidas and Nike use 3D knitting for sneakers and sportswear.
2. Smart Knitted Fabrics
Embedded sensors for health monitoring.
Self-healing and temperature-adaptive materials.
3. Customization and On-Demand Production
AI-driven knitting for personalized designs.
Localized manufacturing to reduce carbon footprint.
4. Biodegradable and Lab-Grown Fibers
Mushroom leather and algae-based yarns.
Sustainable alternatives to traditional wool and synthetics.
Conclusion
Knitted apparel is a dynamic and evolving field that blends tradition with cutting-edge technology. From its fundamental looped structure to advanced applications in fashion, sports, medicine, and smart textiles, knitting continues to shape the future of clothing. As sustainability becomes a priority, innovations in eco-friendly materials and zero-waste production are paving the way for a more responsible fashion industry.
Whether it's a cozy winter sweater, a high-performance athletic shirt, or a futuristic smart garment, knitted fabrics remain an essential part of our daily lives—combining comfort, functionality, and style in every stitch.
