Embroidery: A Brilliant Pearl in Chinese Art
Embroidery is a brilliant pearl in Chinese art. The items embroidered are quite diverse from the magnificent Dragon Robe to theatrical costumes, purses, shoes, spectacle cases, banners, alter cloths and many other pieces. Some of the pieces were so finely stitched that the pieces took 5 to 6 people several years to complete.
The oldest embroidered product in China on record dates from the Shang Dynasty. Embroidery in this period symbolized social status. It was not until later on, as the national economy developed, that embroidery entered the lives of the common people.
Advancement During the Han Dynasty
Through progress over the Zhou Dynasty, the Han Dynasty witnessed a leap in embroidery in both technique and art style. Court embroidery was set, and specialization came into being.The patterns of embroidery covered a larger range, from sun, moon, star, mountain, dragon, and phoenix to tiger, flower, grass, cloud and geometric patterns. Auspicious words were also fashionable. Both historic records and products of the time proved this. According to the records, all the women in the capital of Qi (today’s Linzi, Shandong Province) were able to embroider. The royal family and aristocrats had everything covered with embroidery-even their rooms were decorated with so much embroidery that the walls could not be seen! Embroidery flooded their homes, from mattresses to beddings, from clothes worn in life time to burial articles.
The authentic embroideries found in Mawangdui Han Tomb are the best evidence of this unprecedented proliferation of embroidery. Meanwhile, unearthed embroideries from Mogao Caves in Dunhuang, further prove this observation.
The first book of Chinese embroidery technique was dictated by an accomplished embroiderer, Shen Shou and recorded by Zhang Jian. Shen’s original name was Xue Jun with Xue Huan as her alias. Shou was bestowed by Empress Dowager Cixi when she presented the Empress with the embroidered tapestry , Eight Immortals Celebrating Birthday. In 1911 she presented an embroidered portrait to the Italian Empress as a national gift. In 1915 her embroidery of the portrait of Jesus won the first award at the Panama Expo. Shen excelled in embroidery and devoted herself to teaching and training.
The Meaning of “Xiu” in Chinese Culture
The Chinese word for embroidery is “Xiu”, a picture or embroidery of five colors. It implies beauty and magnificence. For example, the Chinese name for “Splendid China” in Shenzhen, Guangdong was Jin Xiu Zhonghua. “Jin” is brocade; “Xiu” is embroidery; “Zhonghua” is China. “Xiu” is also a part of phrases such as Xiu Lou (embroidery building) and Xiu Qiu (embroidered ball). Embroidery was an elegant task for fair ladies who were forbidden to go out of their home. Embroidery was a good pastime to which they might devote their intelligence and passion. Imagine a beautiful young lady embroidering a dainty pouch. Stitch by stitch, she embroiders a pair of love birds for her lover. It’s a cold winter day and the room is filled with the aroma of incense. What a touching and beautiful picture!
Chinese embroidery has four major traditional styles: Su, Shu, Xiang, and Yue. Among ethnic groups, Bai, Bouyei and Miao people are also adept at embroidery. Their embroidery uses sharp contrast of color and primitive design to express a mysterious flavor. Embroidered Thangka by Tibetans shows their passion in religion.
